Robusto Rumble – Cohiba Robusto – Sullivans Cove American Oak Old and Rare Whisky - Holgate ‘Gate Series’ ‘Double Trouble’ 2015 Release.
We are coming to the end of the Robusto Rumble (I will finish with one from my own humidor, an aged Partagas D4). Next, we’ll look at some Corona Gorda cigars but first, the legendary CoRo. I had put this one aside to finish the Rumble, as by reputation, it should have been our star. And I wanted some special Aussie drinks to try and match.
First, the CoRo. Apols, but I have no idea of code, but it is a young release. It opened with everything one could have hoped for – a gorgeous creamy coffee note. There was dense velvety smoke, real length of flavour here. Could not have hoped for more. Sadly, it did not persist as much as one would wish. Remained an excellent cigar, but it went from one that looked like being a spectacular contender for ‘cigar of the year’ to a very good cigar. Hard to fault it for that, though. For me, the diminution meant it dropped back from a 96 to 98 opening to an overall 92. If all the cigars one smoked came in at 92, you really could not complain.
Both drinks stepped up and to be honest, stole the spotlight.
One was a cracking Aussie stout from one of my very favourite brewers, Holgate. The Holgate ‘Gate Series’ ‘Double Trouble’ 2015 Release is a mature (I should say that I have cellared this for some time, it is not a current release). A very good richly flavoured porter style. It probably would have worked even better with a big chocolatey Limited Edition cigar, but it was a good match. A hint of sweetness, lots of licorice. The Belgian Dubbel style to be more accurate. Some candied fruit notes. Delicious.
The second Aussie choice was an absolute superstar and a brilliant match. Sullivans Cove American Oak Old and Rare Whisky. For me, 99 points. Sullivans Cove is a small distiller from Tasmania which has done brilliantly, from what might fairly be described as a slow start. These days, its tiny production limited-edition whiskies sell out incredibly quickly. At seriously high prices, often $200 to $400 a bottle. If you are on the mailing list, you’ll get notice and often, you’ll have another email within the hour telling you that the release is all sold. I’ll bet many of the great distillers around the world would happily settle for that!
We have looked at Sullivans Cove in the past, though not for a while, so forgive me if we are doubling up here.
Their track record includes their head distiller being inducted into the global Whisky Hall of Fame; winning the “World’s Best Single Cask Single Malt” at the World Whiskies Awards in 2019, (with their French Oak Single Cask Whisky, for the record); which followed winning the same award in 2018 (this time, for their American Oak Single Cask Whisky); no other distiller has ever won this award twice; in 2014, their French Oak Single Cask Whisky was also named “World’s Best Single Malt” at the World Whiskies Awards, making them the only distillery from Australia to ever win that award; a bottle of their American Oak Single Cask Single Malt sold for a national record at Christies, going for £6,600 (proceeds to charity); a heap of accolades for their whiskies from Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible, including a Liquid Gold ranking and a Best Malt award; and finally, a number of international awards for their brandies – not a bad sideline. All after just 25 years in business.
The original Sullivans Cove (if there were ever a possessive apostrophe, it would seem lost in the mists of time) was established back in 1804, as a town on the Derwent River. Today, that town is known as Hobart, the capital of the Island State. For a convict settlement at that time, it is no surprise that alcohol played a serious role in community life. By 1824, there were 16 licenced distilleries operating throughout the region, and undoubtedly many more which may have been a little less legal – the typical backyard stills. It all came to a grinding halt when a devoted campaigner against alcohol, John Franklin, became Governor. He immediately put a stop to all distillation, a ban which lasted until 1990.
There are a series of different oaks used and these, in turn, have had varied past lives. They have recently released their oldest product, an 18-Year-Old whisky. It is not an easy task but these spirits are definitely worth chasing. The Old and Rare series is only for whiskies with at least 16 years in barrel.
The processes at Sullivans Cove include avoiding chill-filtration, believing that by doing this, which leaves all the ‘oils and fats’ in the whisky, the texture and depth benefits. Rather, they give their whiskies an extended period of settling at ambient temperature, so that ‘the heaviest particulate can fall out of solution and be removed with a simple paper filter’. This process is called flocking. They are going a step further with some whiskies, avoiding this entirely so the whisky sees no filtration and is completely natural.
This extraordinary whisky is amazingly complex with caramel and luscious notes. Great length, such that is rarely seen. A pale gold colour. Velvety texture. Cushiony silk. The caramel never stopped. A monumental whisky and worthy of your finest cigar. It certainly worked perfectly here.
KBG
