Hoyo de Monterrey DC - Delamain Cognacs

One of the discussions Rob and I have had in recent times, which pertained to cigars, was the Hoyo DC’s. I have said this numerous times before – there are really only two times he has steered me wrong. The toxic toad of tobacco known as Monte Cs and a box of Hoyo DC’s. 

I was surprised at the recent love for these across the forum. I bought my box back in 2006 and I am struggling to find the code (box was finished a few years ago), but I am pretty sure it was from 2000 or 2001. Granted perhaps not stellar years, but still… 

Looking back at notes, I can see that I really tried to like them and even rated a few of the earlier ones far more highly than I recall. Perhaps I was harsh? But over time, they did not excite. Too many were simply bland. I like a big a cigar as much as anyone but the worst crime a large format can commit is to be boring. And these largely were. 

Rob was keen to restore his good name (stop laughing) and kindly dropped one-off for me to have another look. Not sure of its code and details but the immediate impression was that it had a far darker wrapper than any of the ones from my box. They were pale, insipid – in flavour as well as colour. 

Well, talk about chalk and cheese. If served blind to anyone, I would defy them to pick it as the same cigar as those from Pandora’s box. So different. 

For me, the Hoyo DC, and granted we are only speaking of a single cigar but I’ll take it, and Rob’s reputation are both intact again. 

This cigar was a stunner. Wow! 

Such richness, such an array of flavours. Lots of delicious chocolate and caramel. Moved into choc and cherry notes. And then the cherry flavours really came through. A cherry bomb. I saw none of this in those from the earlier box. Construction proved exemplary. Complex, great length and fine balance. This could easily compete with a top-notch Lusi. Smoked superbly and I can say without hesitation, my mind is completely changed. I gave it 98+. 

To match it, I brought out a trio of cognacs, all from an exceptional House, Delamain. This is one of my absolute favourite Cognac Houses. 

They have a history which, with some massaging, can be traced back into the 1600s. This is a House concentrates on quality. Yes, they all do, but what I mean here is that they avoid such mundane offerings as VS or VSOP and begin their range with an XO, a cognac aged for 25 years. They also offer vintage cognacs, though these are usually at least thirty years of age and only released in runs of a few hundred bottles. I've never had the chance to try one. 

When one says, ‘1600’s’, it is perhaps a little flexible and depends on how one wants to measure these things. Jean-Isaac Ranson came from a family which had operated an export business, trading in Cognac (one of the first to do so, since the time of the origins of Cognac). Move forward a century or so and in 1762, his daughter, Marie, married an Irishman, James Delamain, who had French roots. His ancestor, Nicolas Delamain, escaped France and the Protestant reign of 1625, fleeing to England, later receiving a knighthood from Charles I. He was then, as one said back in the day, ‘appointed to Ireland’. Years later, in 1759, his descendant, James, only 21 at the time, headed back to France, to Jarnac, and joined Ranson’s family firm. He was, unsurprisingly, given the Irish market. As mentioned, James married Marie in 1762 and became a partner of the firm, which changed its name to Ranson & Delamain. 

It was a firm, however, reliant on the efforts of the founder and after his death in 1800, it soon collapsed, not aided by the French Revolution, the Napoleonic Wars, the Continental trade blockage and the fact that James and his son, Jacques, could not stand each other. Throw in those pesky, and still existing, French inheritance laws requiring equal division of property –  James had seven children – and the entire thing was a mess. 

The House was revived in 1824. It was James’ grandson, Anne Philippe (possibly not the most traditional male name and one assumes he took a fearful beating in the playgrounds of the Republic as a child), and his cousins from the Roullet family, who got the firm back on its feet, as Roullet & Delamain, which it remained until 1920 when members of the Delamain family purchased the Roullet shares. It became, as it is today, Delamain & Co. The House is still run by a Delamain, but owned by the esteemed Champagne producer, Bollinger. 

The House does not own a single vine, preferring to purchase top eaux-de-vie from the premier cru of the region, Grande Champagne. They will sample around 400 contenders every year, on average selecting just 40 of these for use by the House. 

The cognacs themselves? 

The ‘XO, Pale and Dry’ was created in 1920 (same time as their ‘Tres Venerable’ – which sits at a similar price tag as the Extra, but seems even harder to access). At least 25 years of age, it is a pale gold colour. There are spices, nuts, a note of blueberry, hints of leather, stonefruit and a warm heart. Excellent length, a little fiery and very complex, this is a first-class Cognac (94). 

The ‘XO, Vesper’, created in the 1950s, is a darker colour with notes of ripe honeysuckle, caramel and white chocolate. Black cherry flavours open, but they morph into a choc-cherry character. Around 35 years of age, it offers great length and is an utterly delicious Cognac (96). 

Finally, the ‘Extra Cognac’, created in 1976. Older than the other two, though just how old is information kept to themselves, it is stunning stuff. A pale gold colour, though not as pale as ‘Pale & Dry’, with cinnamon, spices, honey, vanilla, touches of lanolin and cedar. A supple, seductive texture. Just enough fire with a very long and complex finish (97). 

This ancient Cognac House might not get the fanfare of some, but its cognacs are very special and a must for anyone who enjoys quality spirits. They are also compelling evidence of the need for that crucial element – time. And if this doesn’t make you want to reach for a bottle and a great cigar, I have no idea what will. 

As for matching the cigar, all worked. The Extra, surprisingly, perhaps least of all, though it was a good combo. The Pale & Dry was excellent, but the star was the Vesper (named after the Latin for evening, not dodgy scooters or Bond girls). 

KBG.