Cohiba Behike 52 (Second) – Freycinet Radenti R3 - Jefferson’s Ocean ‘Aged at Sea’ Bourbon

First, let me step in and absolve Rob from any blame for this being a ‘second’. It is from a bunch I got from a trip a few years back to Cuba. Now, I know that there is, deservedly, much skepticism as to whether or not “seconds” purchased in Havana are anything but dodgy fakes, possibly nothing more than banana leaves or newspaper. Over the years, we’ve purchased a few of these, but usually only as a bit of fun. On this occasion, I knew the source and I trust them implicitly. And they have been seriously good cigars as well. 

Lovely smallish Robusto-sized smoke (petit robusto? Though it does seem a smidge bigger than that – is there a size between petit robusto and robusto? – no matter). Toasted, roasted and pleasingly richly flavoured, though always quite mild. Always nicely balanced. Never really heading above mid-weight. There is a smoothness in a good cigar like this and this smoke certainly has it. Very attractive creamy coffee notes, but it did not take long for the honey notes to come through and they were the dominant force for the rest of the smoke. Do love a good cigar which offers lots of honey. Really lovely. 93. 

A hint of russet in the wrapper, just, and I'm not sure if it really comes through in the photo. The construction was seriously good. Once lit (and the usual great care was taken without Whipcrack nagging away in the background), it remained so and burnt as though in awe of the slide-rule. I'm hoping the photos confirm that! Perhaps I can go a week on the balcony sans lecture? Wouldn’t that be a Christmas gift! 

If I recall, these came out in 2010, at the Festival, and immediately won the Cigar of the Year for a well-known cigar mag. I do recall that there were insistent claims that these would be made every year in large quantities. Not sure that this has happened to the extent planned, but mice and men…

Of course, that hardly applies when we are talking ‘seconds’. So one could reasonably expect that “real” ones would be a step up, and probably about 175 times more expensive. I was more than happy with this one. 

Drinks. 

First up was the Jefferson’s Ocean ‘Aged at Sea’ Bourbon, originally a very kind gift from our friend Freefall, but the cupboard restocked subsequently, so yes, one I like. 

The company, founded in 1997, was apparently named in honour of Thomas Jefferson, legendary President (unless saying so transgresses forum etiquette). They source their material from here, there and elsewhere, blend it and then mature it themselves. In this case, at sea. Apparently, it crosses the Equator four times and stops at five different continents – not sure which two dip out. 

There are orange notes and white chocolate hints. It is a full flavoured Bourbon with an underlying minerally touch. Notes of teak, lanolin and vanilla here. A fine Bourbon, thoroughly enjoyable. Sure, one can do better if one wants to pay the big bucks, but I'm more than happy with this. It offers a pleasing supple texture and excellent length. Lovely deep flavours. 

As far as matching the cigar, it certainly worked well, although if one was to shine the blowtorch on the combination, you’d have to say that there is perhaps a little bit too much flavour and power in the Bourbon for this smoke. So a good, not great match. But certainly good enough. 

Second drink is one of my absolute fave non-Champenois sparklers, from Tasmania. I remain convinced that the Island of Tasmania is second only to Champagne itself when it comes to quality sparklers. I know that there are plenty of places around the globe which would consider themselves contenders – New Zealand, other parts of France, Cava, parts of Italy, the Napa and more recently, the vineyards of England making great strides. I have not seen anything from these regions that can top the best from Tassie. Problem is that production is so small, many don’t even make the Mainland, let alone offshore. 

One of my personal favourites comes from a brilliant, though small, winery on the East Coast, Freycinet. They make stunning Chardonnay, regal Pinot Noir and amazingly long-lived Riesling. Winemaker, Claudio Radenti, one of the truly nice guys of the industry, also has a small sparkling operation. 

He made his first back in 1993, but it is small production and a bit of a fun project, I think. They vary. Some have spent more than ten years on lees. Others a bit less. Whatever Claudio thinks best. The latest is called ‘R3’, following on from the 2011 (so, very much not an ‘every year’ project). It is a blend of three recent vintages (40% 2012, 44% 2013, and 16% 2016, in a new blend that is 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir), hence has not seen quite the length of time on lees as some of its predecessors, but is still wonderfully complex (just $55, if you can find it, so a fabulous bargain). 

Spices, almonds, brioche, lemon butter on fresh toast. Imagine that you have just picked up a bunch of fresh flowers and a bag each of lemons and apricots at the local markets and you then walk straight into a newly opened bakery. The structure is immaculate and the length seriously good. The seductively creamy texture is a real highlight and there is a flick of bitter almonds right at the finish. This is a sparkler of the highest quality. 97. 

As a match, the finesse and freshness takes this to a slightly elevated level and works wonderfully well. If I had to pick a winner, this was the combo for me. 

KBG