Robusto Rumble – Por Larranaga Robustos de Larranaga. 2007 Regional Release Asia Pacific. EMA Oct 07 – Bollinger Grand Année 2012
Well, this was a bit embarrassing. I had to do a tasting of the new Bolly and so, once done, the stopper went back in and the bottle to the fridge for that evening. As it really is a scintillating champagne, I wanted a really good cigar. And as we were coming towards the end of the Robusto Rumble, I thought it was time for the CoRo. So I searched high and low. I was thinking how awkward it was going to be explaining to Rob that I had unfortunately misplaced the prized Robusto.
So I thought I would pull one out from my own humidor as a replacement (a Robusto, not a CoRo). Hence, this one, the Por Larranaga Robustos de Larranaga. 2007 Regional Release Asia Pacific. EMA Oct 07. And then I noticed that in the notes, I had already smoked the CoRo. Whoops. Age is a bitch. I did recall this, after the reminder. It has not yet made the write-up stage, so that is my excuse.
This was a stunning cigar. Indeed, I believe it takes the honours as the pick of all the Robustos I have looked at for this. So all is well…
A seriously impressive wrapper and construction. Slightly dark, oily, could not be better. The cigar opened with rich, toasty notes. Glorious. Full-flavoured, lots of toast, plus some roasted nuts. Later, it moved into more mellow nougat and caramel notes and finally, chocolate emerged. Delicious. Stunning. The texture was wonderfully cushiony and soft. Creamy. It did get a smidge hot towards the end but in fairness, I was down to the last few millimetres. 96 and even that seems a little miserly.
In fairness to the champagne, and the cigar, I can’t honestly say that either enhanced the other too much. They worked perfectly well individually and certainly neither marred the other.
I have done the champers, the 2012 Bollinger Grand Année, for Quill and Pad, so if you want the story about the indomitable Madame Bollinger and the Nazis, you’ll have to check it out, but I will plagiarise myself with a tale from one of my visits many years ago, when a chef and I were doing some food and wine events in Asia and I had to duck away for another friend’s wedding in Monte Carlo. We took the time to visit a few wineries, including Bollinger.
Our host for the day was Ghislain Montgolfier, the great-great-grandson of the founder of the House, Joseph Bollinger (we had expected Guy Bizot, Madame Bollinger’s grand-nephew, which is relevant later, but he was away). Ghislain is also descended from the famous Montgolfier brothers who invented the hot air balloon – I wonder how many people who do the early morning, hot air, champagne balloon rides know that the family who invented the balloon might also have made their fizz?
We had a wonderful visit, an incredible tasting, great champagnes and the full Monty, so to speak. The highlight? We were invited to lunch in the famous dining room of the family house.
At the conclusion of an amazing lunch, I simply had to ask Ghislain a question. After all this marvellous hospitality (and yes, I know I should have kept quiet), I had to ask why, when we had arrived at the family home, we had walked straight past the front door and around the back to the laundry (I was wondering if they were that ashamed we were there that they wanted us to duck around behind, but if so, why on earth treat us so incredibly well).
Ghislain looked mortified at the question. He apologised profusely and explained. Seems that Guy had gone off to the Asia-Pacific region for several months promoting their champagnes and had inadvertently taken the front door key with him. They had not yet had time to get another made. Hence, the entire family was stepping over the washing.
2012 is fast gaining a reputation as one of the very best vintages of this century. It is considered a little richer, more forward, more exuberant, than the more classic and elegant 2008s.
This is a gloriously decadent champagne. The colour is perhaps a little more golden than one might expect from such a young champagne but it matters not. Seductively aromatic. There are peaches, tobacco leaf notes, hints of raspberry, fig, almond/hazelnut, perhaps even a whiff of honey, dried fruits, stonefruit, glacéd grapefruit and oyster shell touches. Even hints of truffles, suggesting what might be to come. More open than their 2008, more full in flavour and riper. Superbly structured. Vibrant acidity yet a hedonistic, creamy palate. Even at this early stage, the complexity in this champagne is compelling. Great length. It really does persist for an incredible period of time. A fantastic champagne and while truly wonderful now, it has a great future. 98.
So, great cigar, great champagne. and the struggle to make it through isolation continues.
KBG
