Robusto Rumble – Ramon Allones Specially Selected - Glenglassaugh 1965 50-Year-Old Cask #3510 - Vickery Riesling ‘The Reserve’ Eden Valley 2017 ‘Zander Kosi Block’ EVR 704 Z.
Next robusto into the frame.
Now, as mentioned last time, I have been afflicted by the dreaded lurgy and been hiding away at the coast for the best part of a week. Today was the first day it was not bucketing rain all day – lovely day, actually – and more importantly, the first day I had the chance to try a cigar (notwithstanding my condition, but yet another sacrifice for FoH).
So I went for the tried and tested and always true, RASS. It seemed a cautious but wise move. For drinks, time to push the boat out.
The RASS. Performed admirably. Was in good condition with a rather pale wrapper, but it certainly looked well crafted. It lit well (I was extremely careful) and smoked only needing a touch-up once or twice (as they would say on B-99, title of its sex tape. Sorry. Blame it on the lurgy).
Started nicely with some rich and toasty notes. Nuts, roasted nuts. It did not take too long to move into those lovely caramel notes backed by a whiff of citrus (or was that wishful thinking?), but they did not last. No matter. A fine and pleasing mix of creamy coffee notes, some darker espresso and a hint of white chocolate. Some early complexity and nicely balanced. At no stage would one be fooled into thinking that this was an elegant cigar but neither was it raw or rustic. Thoroughly enjoyable from go to whoa, though the very last inch was a little hot. Let’s blame it on the rebelliousness of youth.
These are cigars that should, and do, age well. it was ideal for a pleasant summer afternoon outdoors (a few too many mossies to be perfect) with some cracking drinks and a new book – ‘The City of Brass’ by S. A. Chakraborty. Her debut and the first of a trio. And I am absolutely loving it. Fantasy set in a middle-east-ish world umpteen centuries ago, kicks off in 18th century Cairo. Hard to put down (bloody mossies) and a fantasy with a terrific line of humour through it – something too many lack. Already looking forward to the rest of it and the next two.
The drinks. Well, to be honest, the malt I would drink with rotten raw camel. What a stunning whisky. Just wow! Blew me away.
If I may plagiarise myself – to a degree – from part of a piece I did for Quill and Pad, as this is not a distillery which I think many of us will be familiar with.
Colonel James Moir established the distillery at Sandend Bay in 1875, building it around three mills, one of them described as a ‘rare Scottish windmill’. With his two nephews, Moir exhibited a talent for making quality whisky. In 1892, following the passing of Moir and half of the nephews, the enterprise was sold to Robertson and Baxter and then immediately purchased by Highland Distillers. Reports suggest that it was mothballed between 1907 and 1931, when it was back up and running, with a modern (for the time) revamping around 1959/1960. During WWII, it was partly used as a bakery.
One report suggested that the owners were keen to make a Speyside-style malt but ‘Glenglassaugh stubbornly remained a Highland character’. This was attributed to the hardness of the local water. Another view is that the whisky produced was extremely complex and worked best as a small component in blends (it happens – every distillery is different). Attempts were apparently made to change the character of the whisky, but to no avail. Consequently, it closed again in 1986 and remained firmly shut (apart from an apparent blip of production in 1998), though the warehouse remained in use. It was in 1998 that the distillery was purchased by a Dutch consortium, but again remained closed until late 2008.
In 2013, the BenRiach Distillery Company took control (my experiences with BenRiach malts have been very positive). In 2016, Brown-Forman acquired not only the Glenglassaugh Distillery, but also The GlenDronach and BenRiach distilleries. Brown-Forman also owns Jack Daniels.
Post 2008, they started with three aged whiskies – 21, over 30 and over 40. Plus a couple of “spirit products” – ‘The Spirit that dare not speak its name’ and ‘The Spirit Drink that blushes to speak its name’. I have no idea what they are and nor do I have any desire to find out. Other whiskies have followed. Perhaps most notably, the Glenglassaugh ‘Revival’ and ‘Evolution’.
They have a line of whiskies which sound utterly fascinating to me – their Massandra Collection (I can’t provide any notes, not having seen any of these whiskies but they are at the top of the bucketlist). For these, Glenglassaugh purchased casks from the famous Crimean winery, Massandra, which was built back in the 1890’s, by Prince Lev Golitsyn. It has an absorbing history and story behind it, not least that it is the proverbial stone’s throw from where the Yalta Conference was held. Hard to imagine that Churchill, Stalin and Roosevelt didn’t at least sample these local wines. There are supposedly more than a million bottles maturing in their cellars, many of their own making but also many of the great wines of Europe from days gone. These whiskies are part of their Rare Cask program.
And that is what really will bring Glenglassaugh to the attention of whisky aficionados – their Rare Cask Releases.
These come from a collection of vintage casks which were discovered in recent times. They date back to before the distillery fell quiet, forgotten treasure. They have been bottled in batches, without chill filtration, each cask telling its own story.
The first Batch had eight different bottlings. The casks were from 1968, 1972, 1973, two from 1975 and 1978 and one from 1986. They were finished in a range of butts, hogsheads and puncheons – Manzanilla, Oloroso, Moscatel and Port. The second Batch of casks, eight releases again, were from 1972, two from 1973, 1974, two from 1975, 1976 and 1978, finished in hogsheads, barrels and puncheons with several from Massandra – Madeira, Rum, Aleatico, Pedro Ximenez and Port.
Now we have Batch 3. These come from 1965, 1967, 1968, two from 1972, 1973, 1975, 1978 and 1986. Puncheons, barrels and hogsheads which held Madeira, Pedro Ximenez, Bourbon and Sauternes.
Each cask is individually numbered. Highland malts of varying character and exceptional quality. Expensive certainly, but the chance to try a malt of this age, complexity and excellence is a rare treat indeed.
There are two impediments preventing us from enjoying these malts on a regular basis. Availability – needless to say, these are extremely limited – and price. In Australia, Cask #3510, 50-Year-Old 1965, from Batch 3, will set one back around A$8,000 (overseas, it seems nearing £5,000 per bottle). As only 285 bottles were ever released, many will consider these to be collectibles only. A shame, as this is a glorious malt. The good news is that the prices vary considerably. The 1986 is less than a tenth of this amount.
To describe this whisky is a real challenge. Every time one returns to it, more is revealed. An amazing malt. There are florals and bright tropical notes. Hints of oatmeal, stonefruits, glacéd fruits, a note which is akin to rum and raisin ice-cream. The finish, incredibly long, has a lovely soft creamy caramel character. Intense, complex and full of flavour, while maintaining a line of elegance throughout. If I am forced to score, an easy 100.
This is, as they say in the classics, a malt to be sipped on bended knee.
And it made a near perfect match with the RASS.
The second drink, the Vickery Riesling ‘The Reserve’ Eden Valley 2017 ‘Zander Kosi Block’ EVR 704 Z. A touch cheaper at $32 and brilliant value at that, if you enjoy good Riesling.
John Vickery is still with us. He is justifiably recognised as one of the finest winemakers Australia has ever produced, often called the ‘Father of Riesling’. And if you won’t take my word for it, the man has won more than fifty trophies and 400 gold medals on the highly competitive Australian show circuit. John’s first vintage was back in 1951 and he has even been awarded the Order of Australia for his services to wine (and Riesling).
John, who has also made some pretty special reds in Coonawarra and other places, is the man responsible for the legendary old Rieslings under the Leo Buring label. These days, it is extremely rare to find one but a certain generation not only grew up on these wines but revered them. A couple of the most exciting tastings I have ever done were verticals of these Rieslings. Brilliant stuff.
Sadly, these days, almost all remaining wines – we are talking 60s, 70s, 80's – have been let down by substandard seals. Dud corks mean that these glories are now effectively the way of the dodo. Such a shame because if the world had any idea what true gems John was producing back then, and what glorious swans they have become, it would change international perceptions on Australian whites. Current winemaker for John is Keeda Zilm, who previously worked at O’Leary Walker in the Clare, another Riesling superstar.
These wines are fantastic Rieslings and brilliant value. They all deserve a place in every cellar.
Two years is not long in Riesling years, but this wine shows the early hints of development. It is a fraction more rounded than their 2019 Citrus, steel and bathroom salts. Finely balanced with razor acidity. Serious length here but the wine maintains intensity right along that length. A really good Riesling and one which has much more to give. Has years ahead of it (both in Riesling and human terms). 95.
It was a pleasant match, fresh and clean, but nothing special.
But that is a small quibble given everything. Worth fighting the dreaded lurgy for an afternoon like this.
KBG
