Vegas Robaina ‘Don Alejandro’ - Wild Turkey ‘Master’s Keep’ Bourbons

So, what does Kenfessions have in common with Hunter S. Thompson, ZZ Top, George Thorogood, 'Rambo', 'In the Heat of the Night', 'Thelma & Louise', 'Who Framed Roger Rabbit', 'The Sopranos', 'Seinfeld' and 'Buffy, the Vampire Slayer'? 

We are all, at some stage, talking, singing or writing about Wild Turkey. As Hunter S. was fond of saying, ‘when the going gets tough, the weird turn professional’. 

But first…

I remember the early days of VR and the excitement. One of the highlights of our first trip to Cuba was getting to spend time with the man himself on his verandah, sharing a smoke, hearing his (translated) tales. Met him one more time, shortly before he passed, at an event in Havana. Lovely man. If I was a professional photographer, I would have begged him to allow me hours photographing his face. Such character. Craggy, sun-ravaged, leathery and yet gentle and kind. 

So, I have always had a soft spot for his cigars. And I’ll confess that when I smoked this, I had forgotten (or possibly not realised) that they were discontinued in 2017. Why, oh why, Habanos? (you may do a little translation of your own here – ‘why’ is a euphemism for ‘shame’). 

This one? Quite pale and the wrapper was a little ragged in spots (the burden of reviewing seconds), but it started in fine form. A lovely nutty roasted opening. Some orange rind notes. Good dense velvety smoke. The balance was certainly impressive. The second half saw it step up a notch. Some delightful honey notes emerged. Persistent flavours and a cigar that just kept getting better throughout. Under medium throughout. 93. 

So why on earth wouldn’t Habanos dump it! Why, Habanos, why? 

To match, a couple from the Master’s Keep series from Wild Turkey. 

For most of us, Wild Turkey tends to be seen as a bulk producer of alcohol, much like our Bundy or Jim Beam or so many others. Others will link the bravest man in America to them – Matthew McConaughey. 

Why the bravest? The man grew up a lifelong Redskins fan in the middle of Cowboys country. Can’t imagine a Texan schoolyard was a welcoming place for a kid in a Skins jersey, especially back in the days when there was such a genuine rivalry (may I digress to ask if anyone will ever forget Daryl Green giving Tony Dorsett ten yards start and running him down, something we were all told was impossible – YouTube it, if you have not seen it. A thing of beauty). 

Perhaps a little on Wild Turkey before we look at the Master’s Keep series. 

The Ripy family, whose endeavours would lead to Wild Turkey, arrived from Ireland in 1851, building a distillery in 1869, in the shadow of Wild Turkey Hill, in Lawrenceburg, Kentucky. That was not, however, from where the name hailed. 

Apparently, around 1940, one of the distillery executives went on a hunting trip with his mates, chasing wild turkeys. He naturally brought along some “warehouse samples” for the trip. They were a hit. The following year, his mates insisted he bring along "some of that wild turkey whiskey". The name stuck. 

Jimmy, and subsequently his son, Eddie, Russell have been with the company since 1954, both as master distiller. 

The Master’s Keep series is part of the push to premiumisation. In the States, the fifth (or fourth, depending on how you count things) of the series is now available. The ‘Cornerstone’ is actually a Rye. It will be available in other parts of the world shortly. 

The first in the series was the ‘17-Year-Old’, followed by ‘Decades’ and then the ‘Revival’. However, there was also the ‘1894’, which seems to have been a Master’s Keep made purely for the Australian market. Quite why Wild Turkey did that, although I believe that we are a good market for them, I have no idea. Eddie Russell travelled to Jerez in Spain to source old oloroso barrels for further ageing of this spirit, after the young bourbon had spent 12 to 15 years in new charred American oak. The name comes from the fact that this was the year their oldest rickhouse was constructed, “Rickhouse A”. Eddie has been quoted saying that the bourbon there was the best he’d seen and hence, the release. “From the very first taste at ‘Rickhouse A’, I knew I wanted to dedicate my life to bourbon.” Must have been one hell of a bourbon! ‘Decades’ was a blend aged between ten and twenty years. 

To match the cigar, I had a glass of both the ‘1894’ and the ‘Revival’. 

For me, ‘1894’, is the more subtle of the pair. There are spice touches, hints of caramel, gentle kid leather and vanilla pod, some cedary oak impressions. Nicely balanced and quite refined, almost muted. An elegant bourbon. 

‘Revival’ is all about bold, in-your-face flavours. This is rich and powerful. Much darker in colour, more spirity, notes of lanolin, fudge, orange liqueur and smoke. Even a hint of fish oil, in the nicest way. There are good vanillin oak notes, plenty of complexity and a delicious nutty, nougat finish. Loved this and it was undoubtedly the pick with the cigar. 

After all, when did Hunter S. ever get anything wrong…

KBG